Torquing head bolts dry vs oiled made my 6.0 stop weeping
I used to torque head bolts dry on every rebuild until a shop owner in Flagstaff told me oiled threads change the clamp load by 15 percent, so I switched to lubing them with 15W-40 and checking the stretch with a dial indicator on my last 6.0 job, has anyone else seen a head gasket fail again from dry torquing?
Hold on, you were torquing head bolts dry this whole time? That is wild to me because every manual I have ever picked up says to lube the threads and the underside of the bolt head before you torque. Dry threads can gall and you get a false reading on the wrench, so the clamp load ends up all over the place. I get that some old school guys swear by dry, but on a 6.0 with those known head gasket issues you are already fighting an uphill battle. Good call switching to the 15W-40 and checking stretch, that is the right way to do it.